Profile How sad that the word special has been denatured to sound more specious than praiseworthy. Because Daniel Boulud really is special. He's been blessed with the glorious gift of being able to mix familiar flavors into the most stunning of summations. He routinely triumphs in why-didn't-anyone-else-think-of-it feats such as the seasonal paupiette of sea bass in a crisp potato shell. The opulent but grace-challenged interior has been tinkered with almost as many times as Avery Fisher Hall, with modest success. It's not for lack of comfort, or the complexion-enhancing illumination, which rivals the work of Dr. Pat Wexler. But the setting has the overbearing splendor of Zeffirelli at the Met. Some of the surrounding clientele feel right at home, but should you fear you've been trapped inside a sachet, simply close your eyes with each chew. — Hal Rubenstein