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When it came time to open its Manhattan flagship, the owners of Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong, a Korean barbecue restaurant mini-chain with a critically acclaimed L.A. location and perpetually packed Flushing outpost, decided to depart from the script. They hired Deuki Hong, who's been cooking professionally in kitchens since he was 15 and put in time with both David Chang and Jean-Georges Vongerichten, to run the kitchen. Having a classically trained chef helming a Korean barbecue place is somewhat unheard of, and while Hong isn't cheffing things up, he is certainly focusing on the details. The menu includes dumplings and sides like stir-fried squid in addition to the main event, but we decided to take a look at a sample spread of grilled meats, along with accompaniments and some banchan.

Here's a detailed look at what's on the table above. Instead of serving the whole leaf lettuce wraps deployed more often at Korean barbecue places, Hong decided to cut romaine into bite-size pieces for smaller, more convenient bites.

This gets dressed with soy, vinegar, and a little garlic.
Photo: Melissa Hom

Beets and radishes are served for diners to assemble a version of the classic banchan item, in which lime and the crunch of the raw vegetable offset fattier meats.

Crunch time.
Photo: Melissa Hom

Kimchi galore.

Of course.
Photo: Melissa Hom

Soft tofu and soy-chile dressing.

This is to snack on while your meat is cooking.
Photo: Melissa Hom

The signature house dipping sauce, with a bit of wasabi.

Ideal for brisket.
Photo: Melissa Hom

Beef and aged kimchi stew.

This is simmered for three hours.
Photo: Melissa Hom

Chilled noodles with a spicy gochujang sauce.

Also available in a less spicy version.
Photo: Melissa Hom

Sprouts and scallions are dressed with a spicy-sweet gochujang dressing.

This ties the meal together.
Photo: Melissa Hom

Steamed kabocha squash with mixed nuts is yet another banchan ideal for nibbling on while the meat cooks.

Because winter is here.
Photo: Melissa Hom

Dongchimi, or Korean water radish kimchi. It's aged in-house for a month.

The radish is fermented with cabbage, garlic, ginger, and fresh fruit.
Photo: Melissa Hom

Here's the Baekjeong lunchbox. It's shaken in front of customers to mix the kimchi with the rice.

They put an egg on it.
Photo: Melissa Hom

It's got roasted aged kimchi, black beans, rice, eggs, toasted anchovies, and shredded nori.

Also, fish cakes.
Photo: Melissa Hom

Meats include several variations of short ribs, and brisket and beef tongue are also available. Pork is in abundance, with skin, collar, and belly cuts. Here's some pork jowl:

That's "premium" pork jowl, buddy.
Photo: Melissa Hom

All grilled up.
Photo: Melissa Hom

Thinly sliced brisket.

Give it a minute.
Photo: Melissa Hom

One more.
Photo: Melissa Hom

Okay, all dressed up.
Photo: Melissa Hom

Finally, here are some prime boneless short ribs.

Nice marbling.
Photo: Melissa Hom

Ready for kimchi.
Photo: Melissa Hom

The dining room seats 150, but gets busy. Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong has been doing four full turns a night, even though the restaurant is open only for dinner.