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ADORO O PERNIL

Sanduíche de pernil na Virada Cultural
JOÃO SAYAD

A política cultural não pode pretender incentivar o bom gosto definido pela "elite branca" da academia. Ou por saudosistas da arte regional

"NÃO PRECISA de ficha no caixa. Podem pegar os refrigerantes ali na geladeira de vidro." O bar na esquina da Major Quedinho serve o melhor sanduíche de pernil em São Paulo. A fome era grande, mas eu não queria entrar: estava apinhado de gente, por causa da Virada Cultural. Imaginei fila no caixa, espera no balcão. Surpresa: fizemos o pedido a um garçom exausto e gozador. O sanduíche veio rápido, repetimos e pagamos ali mesmo, na rua.
Nas padarias e bares do Brasil, os garçons parecem animadores culturais. Têm uma palavra diferente para cada freguês, o serviço é rápido, diferenciado (pão com manteiga na chapa -prensado ou não?).
Na Starbucks (café), são filas imensas. Atrás do caixa, uma moça negra luta com o computador, pede ajuda à supervisora, que olha espantada para o teclado. Depois, você pega um café aguado, muito quente, queima a mão e vai pôr açúcar e pegar uma colherzinha de plástico num balcão melado de café e açúcar. Custa uma fortuna.
No McDonald's, os atendentes fizeram curso para atendimento rápido e delicado, mas é coisa forçada e você tem que ficar na fila. Depois, come sanduíche carregado de gordura trans e senta numa mesa pequena e incômoda. McDonald's e Starbucks valem fortunas na Bolsa.
Os brasileiros mais jovens preferem fast food às coxinhas, empadas, churrasquinhos e mistos-quentes das padarias sempre próximas. Aprenderam a gostar, desde os anos 90, quando o Brasil começou a se "modernizar". Foram seduzidos pelas instalações modernas, pela novidade e pelo que viam nos filmes e na televisão.
Culinária não é arte. Mas a mesma coisa acontece no mundo da arte. A indústria cultural -o filme de entretenimento, a novela da televisão, o "reality show"- ganha o espaço da música erudita, da música popular, do teatro de texto ou de criação coletiva, das congadas e do balé.
Gosto é gosto, e a política cultural não pode ter a pretensão de incentivar o bom gosto definido pela "elite branca" da academia ou dos museus. Ou pelos saudosistas do folclore e da arte regional. A política cultural deve apenas abrir espaço para todas as formas de arte que precisam de apoio -porque não dão lucro, porque não têm cacife para publicidade ou porque não conseguem furar a barreira da moda, o gosto da maioria.
Se fast food fosse uma forma de arte e a moda fosse o pão com manteiga, a política cultural deveria dar incentivo fiscal para o café aguado em copo de papel da Starbucks. Se não existisse legenda e o filme americano não fosse o gosto da maioria, a Lei Rouanet deveria financiar as legendas.
Há duas semanas, São Paulo passou a noite acordada na Virada Cultural promovida pela Prefeitura de São Paulo. Piano e muitos pianistas na praça Dom José Gaspar. Balé clássico e contemporâneo no vale do Anhangabaú. Música jovem, com luz estroboscópica no centro velho. Malabaristas no prédio da Light. E uma fila de dois quilômetros para entrar no Teatro Municipal.
No final de semana passado, o governo do Estado, com as prefeituras e o Sesc, fez uma virada em dez cidades do interior. Que ouviram a Osesp (Orquestra Sinfônica do Estado de São Paulo), Beth Carvalho, o violonista Yamandu, o teatro Mágico, Arnaldo Antunes, o balé de São José. Foram 300 espetáculos. Teatros municipais ficaram cheios, as praças ficaram apinhadas de gente. Duzentas mil pessoas passaram a noite acordadas e continuaram na rua até as 18h de domingo. Tomaram posse da cidade e viram ou ouviram o que não costumam ver ou ouvir. Centenas de artistas viajaram de cá para lá e de lá para cá, exibindo-se para novas platéias. O centro foi para a periferia; a periferia, para o centro; a capital, para o interior; o erudito, para a rua; o popular, para o teatro municipal.
Fim de semana de arte, uma forma nova de ler o mundo, a vizinhança, as ansiedades e os desejos que nos movem durante a semana.
Fim de semana civilizado, onde todos se encontram na rua, sem medo, andando para lá e para cá, como nos quadros e fotos de cidades no início do século passado, quando havia poucos carros, as ruas pertenciam às pessoas e os crimes eram passionais. Civilizado pelo clima de confiança, não era necessário fazer fila no caixa.
Um prazer desconhecido para os cidadãos motorizados em carros de vidro fechado, modernos e apavorados. Uma oportunidade para centenas de artistas. Deu certo. No ano que vem, vamos fazer de novo.

NO FINAL MEU AMOR
TUDO NA VIDA TEM SEUS PROS
E CONTRAS
BIEN SUR
ENTRE O MAC DONALDS
E O TOMATE MOFADO
DAS VITRINES DE PANINES
POR PARIS
TRUST ME
NO MAC
SUAS CHANCES DE DESPENCAR NUM HOSPITAL
SAO BEM MENORES
SE O MAC EH BOM
PRO NOSSO MELHOR ESTILISTA
COM CERTEZA
SERA BOM PRA MIM TAMBEM
ALIAS
ADOREI
QUERO O TRAJE COMPLETO
SEM CONTAR
O ESTADA~O
PRA MIM EH UM EXCELENTE
EXERCISIO DE
OBSERVAÇAO
EM
COMUNICAÇAO
SEM PAPEIS OU COMPUTADORES
E CLARO
EVOLUCAO EM TECNOLOGIA
ELES TEEM UNS FORNOS
PODEROSOS
MELHORES QUE ALGUNS
RESTAURANTES DE 1 MILHA~O DE DOLARES
QUE VEMOS POR AI
AQUILO EH UM EXCELENTE NEGOCIO
E MAIS
ANDO ME DEVERTINDO LENDO COMENTARIOS
NUM BLOG CARO RENOMADO
TENTANDO ENTENDER QUE LINGUA FALAM
O QUE PRETENDEM
SOBRE O RISCADO
A ELITE
ATE ONDE COMPREENDEM DE COZINHA
ESSA GENTE
OUTRA DIVERSAO GARANTIDA
AS FOTOS NAO MENTEM
POREM TENHO QUE CONCORDAR
COZINHA
NAO EH ARTE
NAO
NOSSA ELITE AMARELA
QUASE PARDA
AINDA CONFUNDE
SERVIÇO COM ATENDIMENTO
RETRATO ESCRACHADO
DA SETIMA ECONOMIA
DO QUINTO MUNDO
SORRY
DIFICIL ESCOLHA
ENTRE ALIMENTOS TRANS
E A AFRICA
QUE TEM FOME
AGENDEI MEU ESTAGIO
NO MAC

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The 3 P.M. Brunch With the 4 A.M. Vibe By BEN DETRICKNOV. 16, 2011 Continue reading the main story Share This Page Share Tweet Pin Email More Save Photo An enthusiastic reveler parties to a performance by Roxy Cottontail, a promoter, at Eat Yo Brunch at Yotel on 10th Avenue, where the $35 brunch allows patrons to eat and drink for two hours. Credit Deidre Schoo for The New York Times BRUNCH, an occasion for flapjacks, Bloody Marys and meandering conversation, is traditionally the most sluggish of meals. But a smorgasbord of clubby New York restaurants have transformed lazy midday gatherings into orgies of overindulgence with blaring music, jiggling go-go dancers and bar tabs that mushroom into five figures. No, boozy brunches aren’t new. Inspired by the daytime debauchery on Pampelonne Beach in St.-Tropez, where jet-setters arrive by Ferrari and yacht, early iterations began at Le Bilboquet on the Upper East Side in the early ’90s, and spread to meatpacking district flashpoints like Bagatelle and Merkato 55 in 2008. But more recently, these brunches have been supersized, moving from smaller lounges to brassy nightclubs like Lavo and Ajna. The party blog Guest of a Guest has taken to calling it the “Battle of the Brunches.” “Not everyone gets to run to the beach or jump on a plane,” said Noah Tepperberg, an owner of Lavo in Midtown, which started its brunch party a year ago. “If you want to leave your house on the weekend, brunch fills that void.” On a recent Saturday, Mr. Tepperberg stood in Lavo’s basement kitchen, surrounded by meat slicers and employees readying confectionary “poison apples” for a Halloween party for a pre-split Kim Kardashian. Upstairs, patrons in costumes danced atop tables and chairs, bobbing to the carnival syncopation of Jay-Z and Kanye West’s “Paris.” Confetti and blasts of fog filled the air. Continue reading the main story Related Coverage slideshow The Brunch Party Takes Over Clubs NOV. 16, 2011 Advertisement Continue reading the main story It was 3 p.m. “People walk in and say, ‘I can’t believe this is going on right now,’ ” Mr. Tepperberg said. The brunch bacchanalia shows no sign of running dry. The Mondrian SoHo is starting Scene Sundays this month at its Imperial No. Nine restaurant. In Las Vegas, the original Lavo started a Champagne brunch a few weeks ago. Similar affairs have bubbled up in Boston, Los Angeles and Washington. For those looking to replicate the formula, here’s a guide to some of New York’s frothiest. Day and Night Ajna Bar (25 Little West 12th Street, dayandnightnyc.com); Saturday, noon to 6 p.m. This extravagant French-themed party landed in October at Ajna Bar in the meatpacking district, after dousing the Hamptons, Art Basel in Miami and the Oak Room in the Plaza Hotel with rosé. Beneath an industrial skylight and fluttering flags from the United Kingdom, France and Israel, well-heeled patrons pumped their fists and posed for purse-lipped Facebook photos, racking up huge tabs every Saturday. “I understand there’s a lot of people out there going through hard times,” said Daniel Koch, the promoter who helped start the Day and Night parties at Merkato 55. “But what you want to do with your money is your business.” SIGNAL TO DANCE ON TABLES “If you’ve been sprayed with Champagne, make some noise!” a hype man will shout between piercing dance tracks from Robyn, Calvin Harris and Oasis. Dancers in orange bathing suits will emerge; pipes will blast jets of fog. In a dangerously drunken take on a bar mitzvah ritual, a man spooning dessert out of a giant bowl will be seated on a chair and lifted high into the air by his cronies. BRUNCH SET Club-savvy guests seem piped in from Miami, Monaco and Merrill Lynch. “I’m from the South, so drinking during the day is not new to me,” said a woman who wore a Diane Von Furstenberg dress but not the necessary wristband to enter the V.I.P. area. Outside, near a black Aston Martin coupe, a young man wearing paint on his face and sunglasses delved into socioeconomics. “We’re the 1 percent,” he said to a woman, matter of factly. THE BUFFET The Nutella-stuffed croissants ($12) cater to Europeans, while a gimmicky $2,500 ostrich egg omelet (with foie gras, lobster, truffle, caviar and a magnum of Dom Perignon) is for aspiring Marie Antoinettes. Champagne bottles start at $500; packages with several bottles of liquor and mixers for mojitos or bellinis are $1,000. The check can be sobering. “You didn’t look at the price of the Dom bottle!” a man barked into his iPhone, to a friend who apparently ditched before paying. “It’s $700!” STILL-HOT ACCESSORY Slatted “shutter shades” live on at Day and Night. DID THE D.J. PLAY “WELCOME TO ST.-TROPEZ”? Yes. Lavo Champagne Brunch Lavo (39 East 58th Street, lavony.com); Saturday, 2 to 6:30 p.m. Smog guns. Confetti cannons. Piñatas. Masked masseuses. Dancers in Daisy Duke shorts (some on stilts, obviously). Since last November, this Italian restaurant has roiled with the energy and pageantry of Mardi Gras. At the recent Halloween party, Slick Rick, an old-school rapper with an eye patch and glinting ropes of jewelry, lethargically performed several ’80s hits. Some of the younger “Black Swans” in attendance were unsure of his identity. “Is he big in London?” asked an Australian woman wearing a top hat. SIGNAL TO DANCE ON TABLES Caffeinated anthems like Pitbull’s “Hey Baby” and Roscoe Dash’s “All the Way Turnt Up” are accentuated by processions of bouncers carrying women above them in tubs, like Cleopatra on a palanquin. Polenta pancakes taking up precious square footage? Just kick them aside with your stilettos. Newsletter Sign Up Continue reading the main story Open Thread Newsletter A look from across the New York Times at the forces that shape the dress codes we share, with Vanessa Friedman as your personal shopper. You agree to receive occasional updates and special offers for The New York Times's products and services. See Sample Privacy Policy Opt out or contact us anytime BRUNCH SET Share Champagne spritzers with willowy model types and inheritors of wealth. The scrum on an October afternoon included the son of a Mongolian dignitary, six scions of Mexican plutocracy wearing novelty somberos, and at least one supermodel. “She’s everywhere,” said Mr. Tepperberg, as the nymph, whose name he couldn’t remember, disappeared into the jungle of merriment. THE BUFFET With the emphasis on tabletop dancing, Italian trattoria offerings (margherita pizzas for $21, and lemon ricotta waffles for $19) are often abandoned underfoot and sprinkled with confetti. Proving alcohol reigns supreme here, ice buckets are carefully shielded with napkins. Bottle service rules: Moët Brut is $195 and liquor starts at $295. Balthazar and Nebuchadnezzar sizes surge toward the $10,000 mark. RISKY ROSé Alcohol and high-altitude dancing can be perilous: there was a brief hullabaloo in one corner when several women took a tumble. DID THE D.J. PLAY “WELCOME TO ST.-TROPEZ”? Yes. Eat Yo Brunch Yotel (570 10th Avenue, yotel.com); Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. If spending thousands of dollars makes your stomach turn, this newish party at Yotel is more easily digested. This affably cartoonish affair, held at the space-age hotel in Hell’s Kitchen with the design aesthetics of a Pokémon, draws a gay-friendly crowd lured northward by Patrick Duffy, a promoter. “There’s a lot of pressure in night life,” Mr. Duffy said. “But I feel like Sunday is a comedown. It doesn’t have to be perfect.” SIGNAL TO DANCE ON TABLES These connoisseurs of brunch wear designer shoes too stylish for tromping atop omelets. With a D.J. spinning dance tracks from LeLe and Earth, Wind & Fire, guests sip bellinis at the bar or banter at long communal tables. The performers are looser. One afternoon, Roxy Cottontail, a pink-haired promoter, vamped around the sunken dining area with a microphone. “Don’t make kitty pounce,” she rapped, before climbing atop a table. BRUNCH SET Clusters of trim men wear leather motorcycle jackets or shroud themselves in patterned scarves. “It’s an eclectic, downtown vibe,” Ms. Cottontail said. “We have the most fabulous gays in New York City.” When a platinum-blond waiter in skintight jeans pranced in front of a wall decorated with pictures of sumo wrestlers riding Japanese carp, it seemed straight from an anime cell. THE BUFFET For an egalitarian $35, patrons receive unlimited grub — options include chilaquiles, halibut sliders and seaweed salad — and a two-hour window of boozing. “It’s not bougie,” said Mr. Duffy, who bounded across the room hugging guests and hand-delivering shots. “You could be a poor, starving artist or someone that doesn’t take a client for under $20 million.” COLOR CODE Wear purple if you hope to be camouflaged by the staff outfits, chairs and ceilings. DID THE D.J. PLAY “WELCOME TO ST.-TROPEZ”? No. Sunset Saturdays PH-D Rooftop Lounge at Dream Downtown (355 West 16th Street, dreamdowntown.com); Saturday, 5:30 to 10 p.m. Despite a happy hour time slot, this sunset party atop the Dream Downtown hotel is not for pre-gaming. After funneling in brunch crowds from elsewhere, 8 p.m. has the frenzied atmosphere and intoxication of 2 a.m. The offbeat timing may deter conventional weekend warriors. “No matter how cool the place, some people feel Friday and Saturday nights are for amateurs,” said Matt Strauss, a manager of PH-D. “We’re not for amateurs.” SIGNAL TO DANCE ON TABLES The D.J. rapid-fires through tracks from C+C Music Factory, LMFAO and Rick Ross, but booze-lubricated guests scramble on couches with little hesitation. Those grappling with bursts of existential angst after six hours of brunch can gaze pensively at the spectacular views of Midtown Manhattan. BRUNCH SET Attractive women and affluent men knot around tables; hotel guests gawk from the bar. On a recent Saturday, Mark Wahlberg danced with a few friends, and David Lee, a former New York Knick, enjoyed downtime provided by the N.B.A. lockout. “We saw an angle,” said Matt Assante, a promoter. “People spend more money than at nighttime.” THE BUFFET Brunch is thankfully over, but crispy calamari ($17) and guacamole ($12) could constitute a light dinner. A bottle of Veuve Clicquot is $475. Cîroc vodka is $450. Cocktails like the Cloud Nine (Beefeater gin, Campari, grapefruit) are $18; a Bud Light is $10. WINDING DOWN After the rigors of daylong gorging, relax with the help of an on-site masseuse. DID THE D.J. PLAY “WELCOME TO ST.-TROPEZ”? Obviously.

The 3 P.M. Brunch With the 4 A.M. Vibe By BEN DETRICK NOV. 16, 2011 Continue reading the main story Share This Page Share Tweet Pin Email More Save Photo An enthusiastic reveler parties to a performance by Roxy Cottontail, a promoter, at Eat Yo Brunch at Yotel on 10th Avenue, where the $35 brunch allows patrons to eat and drink for two hours. Credit Deidre Schoo for The New York Times BRUNCH, an occasion for flapjacks, Bloody Marys and meandering conversation, is traditionally the most sluggish of meals. But a smorgasbord of clubby New York restaurants have transformed lazy midday gatherings into orgies of overindulgence with blaring music, jiggling go-go dancers and bar tabs that mushroom into fiv

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