Showing Hospitality, Even If Some
Don’t Feel Too Hospitable
By Kim Severson
Tags: New Orleans
President Bush shared a meal on Tuesday with Leah Chase at her restaurant Dooky Chase. (Evan Vucci/The Associated Press)
Gumbo isn’t the only thing that’s simmering in New Orleans today.
People are getting together to cook for each other and remember Hurricane Katrina. But as they sit down to eat, some are complaining about President Bush’s meal last night with Leah Chase at her restaurant Dooky Chase.
Many residents say Mr. Bush was late to show up to New Orleans after Katrina and people still complain that there hasn’t been enough federal support for the city. So having the president appear on the storm’s anniversary seems disingenuous to some.
But being inhospitable just isn’t in Leah Chase’s nature. Besides, she said over the phone today, “You might disagree with a person, but as long as he’s your leader I feel he should be treated like a royal highness.’’
The evening, she said, “went beautiful.’’
“If I had neighbors they’d be so surprised because they never had a president come through.’’ She recalled that as a girl she lined up on the sidewalk near her home to see Franklin Roosevelt drive by on his way to Antoine’s in the French Quarter. “To have a president today who reaches out to the people is kind of uplifting.’’
Ms. Chase spent most of the last two years living in a FEMA trailer next to her restaurant in the Tremé neighborhood. It had taken on more than four feet of water.
And still, after all that time, she said, “I have no neighborhood.’’
She and her husband and daughter are the only people on her block. There are two families a block away. That’s it.
Since Ms. Chase is considered the nation’s best Creole cook and certainly the most famous, people around the country have helped her, raising money and joining in the renovation.
Many in the New Orleans food community have measured their city’s recovery by the painstakingly slow efforts to fix up Dooky Chase, to paint its walls and give it a new kitchen.
One of those who’s helped has been Chef John Folse, who was in the kitchen last night.
“John said, ‘Don’t worry, Leah, you’re not going to bum out.’ He was in there plating up, and sweating like crazy. It worked out great.’’
Dinner with the president was sort of a soft opening for Dooky Chase. So far, Ms. Chase has only had family dinners there for wedding parties. Within two weeks, though, she hopes to finally open for real.
“I owe so many people,’’ she said. “So many people helped me. I believe I’ll pay them back by trying to build my community and trying to build my city up.’’
Comentários