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Profile How sad that the word special has been denatured to sound more specious than praiseworthy. Because Daniel Boulud really is special. He's been blessed with the glorious gift of being able to mix familiar flavors into the most stunning of summations. He routinely triumphs in why-didn't-anyone-else-think-of-it feats such as the seasonal paupiette of sea bass in a crisp potato shell. The opulent but grace-challenged interior has been tinkered with almost as many times as Avery Fisher Hall, with modest success. It's not for lack of comfort, or the complexion-enhancing illumination, which rivals the work of Dr. Pat Wexler. But the setting has the overbearing splendor of Zeffirelli at the Met. Some of the surrounding clientele feel right at home, but should you fear you've been trapped inside a sachet, simply close your eyes with each chew. — Hal Rubenstein

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NUTS HISTERIA

Are Nut Bans Promoting Hysteria? Worries about nut allergies are intense in some circles. (Lars Klove for The New York Times) Every parent of a school-age child has heard the warnings about nut allergies. Some schools ban nuts entirely, while others set aside special nut-free tables. Parents are often quizzed about the ingredients and preparation methods for birthday treats they send to school. One parent told me she was asked whether a clean knife used to cut brownies had ever been used to spread peanut butter. While nut allergies are clearly a risk to some children, often the response to this health concern represents “a gross overreaction to the magnitude of the threat,” argues Dr. Nicholas A. Christakis, an internal medicine doctor and professor at Harvard Medical School, in a recent column in the British medical journal BMJ. In the column, Dr. Christakis points out that about 3.3 million Americans are allergic to nuts, and even more — 6.9 million — are allergic to seafood. But of ...

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