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AHGUA DE COLO^NIA

AH
EU SEI
AH TAH
FUI LENTO
SORRY XUH
I M
DEEPLY SORRY
EH NA~O SEI
TO^DO VIRADO
REVIRAHDO
E VIAHDO
AQUIH NA ZONNA LESTE
E HISTOHRIAS
DE AMORES
CAHRAS
E
CARAHS
MY FAVORITE
RO^LE
BEACHTCH
THE WIHTCHYH
LE MONDE DIPLOMATQUE
BRAZIL
AS ARMAS GOVERNAM
OS CRIMES
E
A
ANISTIA
MINDLIN
O REI DA BIBLIOTECA
FICO IMAGINANDO O QUE^ ESEA SENHOR NA~O TEM EM BIBLIOTECA
ENFIN BREHF
DEPOIS DA CRISE
INEVITAHVEL MUNDO NO^VO
O PODER
VAI PARA O ORIENTE
OS PAIHZES EMERGENTES
SE FIRMAM
DOHLLAR
EXPLICAHDO
LATIN
LATIN
LATIN
SAL
SAL
SAL
ZUMBIH
DIREITOS HUMANOS
MILITARES
CIVIHS
NA~O VIH
AI
AQUIH NO CONGO
NA~O SEI
NA~O ME PERGUNTE
NA~O ME CONTE
CUBA
I DON’T KNOW
PARTICIPACA~O
PRODUTO
SERVIÇO
SERVIÇO
SERVIÇO
VEHLHO
DIFIHCIL
VEHLHO
DE
ESGOTAHDO
TURVO
REVOLUCIONAHRIO
METICULO^ZO
NEW DEAL
A AGRICULTURA
SOCIAL
AMBIENTAL
A FOME NO MUNDO
INTEGRAÇA~O
MANGAS
MANGAS
MANGAS
E
PAVIOS
COMUNIDADE
AÇA~O
PRIMAVERA
TOLERANCIA
JUSTIÇA
VIOLENCIA
O ERSTAHDO
A CRIHTICA
OS CRIMES
AS RESPONSABILIDADES
PASSOS
PASSOS
PAHSSOS
PASSAHGEM
AS SERRAS
MONTES
COLINAS
LIBERDADE
AFIRMAÇA~O
EMIGRAÇA~O
VIOLE^NCIA
O
INVISIHVEL
A
TERRA
CALIFORNIA
NO FUNDO
NO FUNDO
AI
BIO
A FORMA
DE
BIOSOCIODADIVERCIDADE
EU SEI
SE SEI
O PERIGO MOHRA AO LAHDO
EU NA~O SEI
BUZZY
DE BUZZY
GIRL
VIH FLO^RES LINDAS
AH
DEFINITIVAMENTE
SPRING
KRASHBERG
AHDOHRO ESTE SENHOR
NA~O POHSSO PERDER
TERROIR
O QUE SERAH
SEROU
OU VOU
CARTAS
NOHVAS REGRAS
MUITO DINHEIRO
O INGRESSO
NO BREZIL
CLUB
EXPORTAÇA~O
HO^JE
TONIGHT
PREÇOS
PATAMARES
PETROHLEO
DESMATAMENTO
QUEIMADAS
OS BALO~ES
LINDO BURLE MAX
AI
ACHEI LINDAS AS FLO^RES
AI
FLO^RES
LINDAS
PERIGO
PERIGO
PERIGO
PARE DE BRINCAR COM FO^GO
RAPAZ
PARTICIPAÇA~O
RAPAZ
CIDADA~O
AI QUE SE^DE
OU SER
CADE^ MEU CIGARRO
WIFE
CORTOU
NA~O QUEH MAIS
RIHDIHCULA
EHLA
EU SEI
EHLA NA~O PERMITE
TO^ PENSANDO
AS DAHTAS
TEEM ME AGRADADO
VOÇE^
ISTO
REALIDADE
DOUTRINA
MULTI
AMEHRICA
ECONOMIA
GEOGRAFIA
CAPITAL
CHINA
IDEOLOGIA
TESOURO
LOCAL
AMERICA
CONSUMIDOR
INDIA
RELAÇO~ES
CADE^ MINHA CERVE^JA
AHGUA
NESTLE^
IMPEHRIO
LOGISTICA
PODER
RUHSSIA
GUATEMALA
PORK
PORK
PORK
MISS PIG
PLATAFORMA
LU^ZES
CAPITAL
LIBERAL
SABER
NOVIDADES
CLAHSSICOS
BLACK
EMANOEL ARAUHJO
PENSEI NE^LE
PENSEI NE^LE
NO MASP
CO^R
ESTAHDO
FIM DA FOME
REALIDADE
CRIMES
DITADURAS
O MUNDO
JUSTIÇA
MEHXICO
UHNICO
O MAL
O BEM
EXPERIMENTE
COMUNICAÇÅ~O
TRADIÇA~O
AFEHTO
ACOLHER
COMPRAR
ALIMENTAÇA~O
TRADIÇA~O
DESAFIOS
FORMULAS
ECONOMIAS
MINEHRIOS
POLIHTICA
AVANTE CAMARADAS
SITUAÇA~O
CONSIDERAÇA~O
PRODUÇA~O
CONCEITO
SOCIAL
GLOBAL
LUZ
LUZES
MERCAHDO
SOCIEDADE
DIPLOMACIA
O LIXO
O PLANE^
TRABALHO
TRABALHO
E MAIS TRAHBAHLHO
FUINÇA~O
FUNDAMENTO
O TEMPO
TIMMING
DIREITO
TRABAHLHO
SOCIAL
NUHMEROS
FIM
HORROR
LEIS
PESQUISA
ESTRANHOS
ESTRANGEIROS
MINEHRIO
AMBIENTE
VALE
AH
AHCHO QUE VAHLE

AH
QUEM A~O ARRISCA NA~O PETISCA
CARAJAHS
BANANAS
O MUNDO
PUBLICO
PRIVADO
PENSE NO INVIZIVEL
NO CAMPO
EDUCAÇA~O
TERRITOHRIO
TERROIR
TRABALHO
ERSTRATEHGIA
POLIHTICA
PARTICULAR
ACESSO
RELAÇA~O
RESPEITO
CORRESPONDE^NCIA
O CAMPO
LIVROS
MEMOHRIAS
PROHZAS
FORMAÇA~O
CAMINHOS
CULTURA
DESENVOLVIMENTO
BEM ESTAR
BEM ESTAR
BEM ESTAR
TRANSFORMAÇA~O
ECONOMIA
ARQUEOLOGIA
POTENCIAL
RENDA
EMPRE^GO
CLASSIFICAÇA~O
LIDERANÇA
DEMOCRACIA
EXPERIE^NCIAS
TEOLOGIA
LIBERDADE
TRABALHO
DIVERSA~O
IDENTIDADE
CIDADANIA
OUVODORIA
EMPRESA
PETROHLEO
PENSANDO BEM
ENERGIA
DESENVOLVIMENTO
SUSTENTAÇA~O
SUSTENTABILIDADE
GIRASSOIS
RESPEITO
REHGRAS
ENERGIA
DESAFIO
FUTURO
AMBIENTE
COMPROMETIMENTO
VALOR
PROFUNDO
IMPORTA^NCIA
AVENTURAS
ORIENTE
NU^MEROS
NU^MEROS
NU^MEROS
A GUEHRRA
O POLIHTICO
O^BA
OBAMA
QUESTO~ES
ANAHLIZES
GERAÇA~O
OPORTUNIDADES
FAZENDA
PARIS
PARIS
PARIS
TENDE^NCIAS
PRODUÇA~O
GRACE JONES
SANTOS
ATUAL
GARÇAS
GARÇAS
GARÇAS
ULTRA
SHINE
IDEOLOGIAS
RAZA~O

DISTRIBUIÇA~O
VIATNA~
IRAQUE
O MUNDO
EM TRILHO~ES
INSTITUIÇO~ES
PEQUIM
COMPRA
IMAGINAÇA~O
POSIÇA~O
MERCADOS
O ISLA~
KALASHIKOV
TU
160
REDAÇA~O
ENEM
LATIN
CHILE
LINHAS
IMPORTAÇA~O
RESPONSABILIDADE
XARAH
TANGIHVEL
AH XUXUH
CE^ TAH BEM
EU TO^ BEM TAMBEM
PRAH VARIAR
ESTOU PENSANDO EM VOÇE^
POREM
FORÇA
ESTRUTURA
LUGAR
CRISE
EQUILIHBRIO
INSPIRAÇA~O
AI
SEXY
O JOHTA TAH NA FINAL
O NEGA~O ME APARECEU
DE TOPEHTE
E
DE
IGUAL
MEU AMIGO
ELOGIOU MUITIHSSIMO
MINHA FRANJA NOHVA
DI^SSE
QUEU TAHVA BEM
EH
SEGRE^DO DARLING
SOH CORTO COM PROENÇA
QUE EH FI^NO ATEH
ONÇAS
E TRANSPARE^NCIAS
SEHCULO DEZENOHVE
PROGRAMAS
SIMPLES
SAGRADO
DEPOIS DA CRISE
DE
SIMPLICIDADES
BAHSICAS
CLAHSSICAS
CINZAS SU^JOS
PRODUÇA~O
ESTRATIFICAÇA~O
PIG
PIG
PIG
ALTO ASTRAL
COMERCIUIO
LIBERDADE
ME^XA SUA BUNDA
QUIRIDA
DO GOVERNO
DA PERTINE^NCIA
PARTICULAR
PRONTO
DESCONSTRUÇA~O
XUXUH
EU SEI
TO^ PARECENDO
HUM
PAPAGAYO
A TERRA
EM RISCO
VIVER
MESMO
BREHVE
REALIDADE
VIRAHDO
DA SITUAÇA~O
FRAHGIL
APONTAHDA
A LUTA NA~O ACABOU
AVANTE CAMARADAS
NA ERDE
NEM COMEÇOU
AVANTE CAMARADAS
EM CRIAÇA~O
DE
SOLUÇO~ES
COMERCIAIS
AH TAH
FUI LENTO
SORRY XUH
I M
DEEPLY SORRY
EH NA~O SEI
TO^DO VIRADO
REVIRAHDO
E VIAHDO
MY FAVORITE
RO^LE
BEACHTCH
THE WIHTCHYH
LE MONDE DIPLOMATQUE
BRAZIL
AS ARMAS GOVERNAM
OS CRIMES
E
A
ANISTIA
MINDLIN
O REI DA BIBLIOTECA
FICO IMAGINANDO O QUE^ ESEA SENHOR NA~O TEM EM BIBLIOTECA
ENFIN BREHF
DEPOIS DA CRISE
INEVITAHVEL MUNDO NO^VO
O PODER
VAI PARA O ORIENTE
OS PAIHZES EMERGENTES
SE FIRMAM
DOHLLAR
EXPLICAHDO
LATIN
LATIN
LATIN
SAL
SAL
SAL
ZUMBIH
DIREITOS HUMANOS
MILITARES
CIVIHS
NA~O VIH
AI
AQUIH NO CONGO
NA~O SEI
NA~O ME PERGUNTE
NA~O ME CONTE
CUBA
I DON’T KNOW
PARTICIPACA~O
PRODUTO
SERVIÇO
SERVIÇO
SERVIÇO
VEHLHO
DIFIHCIL
VEHLHO
DE
ESGOTAHDO
TURVO
REVOLUCIONAHRIO
METICULO^ZO
NEW DEAL
A AGRICULTURA
SOCIAL
AMBIENTAL
A FOME NO MUNDO
INTEGRAÇA~O
MANGAS
MANGAS
MANGAS
E
PAVIOS
COMUNIDADE
AÇA~O
PRIMAVERA
TOLERANCIA
JUSTIÇA
VIOLENCIA
O ERSTAHDO
A CRIHTICA
OS CRIMES
AS RESPONSABILIDADES
PASSOS
PASSOS
PAHSSOS
PASSAHGEM
AS SERRAS
MONTES
COLINAS
LIBERDADE
AFIRMAÇA~O
EMIGRAÇA~O
VIOLE^NCIA
O
INVISIHVEL
A
TERRA
CALIFORNIA
NO FUNDO
NO FUNDO
AI
BIO
A FORMA
DE
BIOSOCIODADIVERCIDADE
EU SEI
SE SEI
O PERIGO MOHRA AO LAHDO
EU NA~O SEI
BUZZY
DE BUZZY
GIRL
VIH FLO^RES LINDAS
AH
DEFINITIVAMENTE
SPRING
KRASHBERG
AHDOHRO ESTE SENHOR
NA~O POHSSO PERDER
TERROIR
O QUE SERAH
SEROU
OU VOU
CARTAS
NOHVAS REGRAS
MUITO DINHEIRO
O INGRESSO
NO BREZIL
CLUB
EXPORTAÇA~O
HO^JE
TONIGHT
PREÇOS
PATAMARES
PETROHLEO
DESMATAMENTO
QUEIMADAS
OS BALO~ES
LINDO BURLE MAX
AI
ACHEI LINDAS AS FLO^RES
AI
FLO^RES
LINDAS
PERIGO
PERIGO
PERIGO
PARE DE BRINCAR COM FO^GO
RAPAZ
PARTICIPAÇA~O
RAPAZ
CIDADA~O
AI QUE SE^DE
OU SER
CADE^ MEU CIGARRO
WIFE
CORTOU
NA~O QUEH MAIS
RIHDIHCULA
EHLA
EU SEI
EHLA NA~O PERMITE
TO^ PENSANDO
AS DAHTAS
TEEM ME AGRADADO
VOÇE^
ISTO
REALIDADE
DOUTRINA
MULTI
AMEHRICA
ECONOMIA
GEOGRAFIA
CAPITAL
CHINA
IDEOLOGIA
TESOURO
LOCAL
AMERICA
CONSUMIDOR
INDIA
RELAÇO~ES
CADE^ MINHA CERVE^JA
AHGUA
NESTLE^
IMPEHRIO
LOGISTICA
PODER
RUHSSIA
GUATEMALA
PORK
PORK
PORK
MISS PIG
PLATAFORMA
LU^ZES
CAPITAL
LIBERAL
SABER
NOVIDADES
CLAHSSICOS
BLACK
EMANOEL ARAUHJO
PENSEI NE^LE
PENSEI NE^LE
NO MASP
CO^R
ESTAHDO
FIM DA FOME
REALIDADE
CRIMES
DITADURAS
O MUNDO
JUSTIÇA
MEHXICO
UHNICO
O MAL
O BEM
EXPERIMENTE
COMUNICAÇÅ~O
TRADIÇA~O
AFEHTO
ACOLHER
COMPRAR
ALIMENTAÇA~O
TRADIÇA~O
DESAFIOS
FORMULAS
ECONOMIAS
MINEHRIOS
POLIHTICA
AVANTE CAMARADAS
SITUAÇA~O
CONSIDERAÇA~O
PRODUÇA~O
CONCEITO
SOCIAL
GLOBAL
LUZ
LUZES
MERCAHDO
SOCIEDADE
DIPLOMACIA
O LIXO
O PLANE^
TRABALHO
TRABALHO
E MAIS TRAHBAHLHO
FUINÇA~O
FUNDAMENTO
O TEMPO
TIMMING
DIREITO
TRABAHLHO
SOCIAL
NUHMEROS
FIM
HORROR
LEIS
PESQUISA
ESTRANHOS
ESTRANGEIROS
MINEHRIO
AMBIENTE
VALE
AH
AHCHO QUE VAHLE

AH
QUEM A~O ARRISCA NA~O PETISCA
CARAJAHS
BANANAS
O MUNDO
PUBLICO
PRIVADO
PENSE NO INVIZIVEL
NO CAMPO
EDUCAÇA~O
TERRITOHRIO
TERROIR
TRABALHO
ERSTRATEHGIA
POLIHTICA
PARTICULAR
ACESSO
RELAÇA~O
RESPEITO
CORRESPONDE^NCIA
O CAMPO
LIVROS
MEMOHRIAS
PROHZAS
FORMAÇA~O
CAMINHOS
CULTURA
DESENVOLVIMENTO
BEM ESTAR
BEM ESTAR
BEM ESTAR
TRANSFORMAÇA~O
ECONOMIA
ARQUEOLOGIA
POTENCIAL
RENDA
EMPRE^GO
CLASSIFICAÇA~O
LIDERANÇA
DEMOCRACIA
EXPERIE^NCIAS
TEOLOGIA
LIBERDADE
TRABALHO
DIVERSA~O
IDENTIDADE
CIDADANIA
OUVODORIA
EMPRESA
PETROHLEO
PENSANDO BEM
ENERGIA
DESENVOLVIMENTO
SUSTENTAÇA~O
SUSTENTABILIDADE
GIRASSOIS
RESPEITO
REHGRAS
ENERGIA
DESAFIO
FUTURO
AMBIENTE
COMPROMETIMENTO
VALOR
PROFUNDO
IMPORTA^NCIA
AVENTURAS
ORIENTE
NUMEROS
NUMEROS
NUMEROS
A GUEHRRA
O POLIHTICO
O^BA
OBAMA
QUESTO~ES
ANAHLIZES
GERAÇA~O
OPORTUNIDADES
FAZENDA
PARIS
PARIS
PARIS
TENDE^NCIAS
PRODUÇA~O
GRACE JONES
SANTOS
ATUAL
GARÇAS
GARÇAS
GARÇAS
ULTA
SHINE
IDEOLOGIAS
RAZA~O

DISTRIBUIÇA~O
VIATNA~
IRAQUE
O MUNDO
EM TRILHO~ES
INSTITUIÇO~ES
PEQUIM
COMPRA
IMAGINAÇA~O
POSIÇA~O
MERCADOS
O ISLA~
KALASHIKOV
TU
160
REDAÇA~O
ENEM
LATIN
CHILE
LINHAS
IMPORTAÇA~O
RESPONSABILIDADE
XARAH
TANGIHVEL
AH XUXUH
CE^ TAH BEM
EU TO^ BEM TAMBEM
PRAH VARIAR
ESTOU PENSANDO EM VOÇE^
POREM
FORÇA
ESTRUTURA
LUGAR
CRISE
EQUILIHBRIO
INSPIRAÇA~O
AI
SEXY
O JOHTA TAH NA FINAL
O NEGA~O ME APARECEU
DE TOPEHTE
E
DE
IGUAL
MEU AMIGO
ELOGIOU MUITIHSSIMO
MINHA FRANJA NOHVA
DI^SSE
QUEU TAHVA BEM
EH
SEGRE^DO DARLING
SOH CORTO COM PROENÇA
QUE EH FI^NO ATEH
ONÇAS
E TRANSPARE^NCIAS
SEHCULO DEZENOHVE
PROGRAMAS
SIMPLES
DE
SIMPLICIDADES
BAHSICAS
CLAHSSICAS
CINZAS SU^JOS
PRODUÇA~O
ESTRATIFICAÇA~O
PIG
PIG
PIG
ALTO ASTRAL
COMERCIUIO
LIBERDADE
ME^XA SUA BUNDA
QUIRIDA
DO GOVERNO
DA PERTINE^NCIA
PARTICULAR
PRONTO
DESCONSTRUÇA~O
XUXUH

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The 3 P.M. Brunch With the 4 A.M. Vibe By BEN DETRICKNOV. 16, 2011 Continue reading the main story Share This Page Share Tweet Pin Email More Save Photo An enthusiastic reveler parties to a performance by Roxy Cottontail, a promoter, at Eat Yo Brunch at Yotel on 10th Avenue, where the $35 brunch allows patrons to eat and drink for two hours. Credit Deidre Schoo for The New York Times BRUNCH, an occasion for flapjacks, Bloody Marys and meandering conversation, is traditionally the most sluggish of meals. But a smorgasbord of clubby New York restaurants have transformed lazy midday gatherings into orgies of overindulgence with blaring music, jiggling go-go dancers and bar tabs that mushroom into five figures. No, boozy brunches aren’t new. Inspired by the daytime debauchery on Pampelonne Beach in St.-Tropez, where jet-setters arrive by Ferrari and yacht, early iterations began at Le Bilboquet on the Upper East Side in the early ’90s, and spread to meatpacking district flashpoints like Bagatelle and Merkato 55 in 2008. But more recently, these brunches have been supersized, moving from smaller lounges to brassy nightclubs like Lavo and Ajna. The party blog Guest of a Guest has taken to calling it the “Battle of the Brunches.” “Not everyone gets to run to the beach or jump on a plane,” said Noah Tepperberg, an owner of Lavo in Midtown, which started its brunch party a year ago. “If you want to leave your house on the weekend, brunch fills that void.” On a recent Saturday, Mr. Tepperberg stood in Lavo’s basement kitchen, surrounded by meat slicers and employees readying confectionary “poison apples” for a Halloween party for a pre-split Kim Kardashian. Upstairs, patrons in costumes danced atop tables and chairs, bobbing to the carnival syncopation of Jay-Z and Kanye West’s “Paris.” Confetti and blasts of fog filled the air. Continue reading the main story Related Coverage slideshow The Brunch Party Takes Over Clubs NOV. 16, 2011 Advertisement Continue reading the main story It was 3 p.m. “People walk in and say, ‘I can’t believe this is going on right now,’ ” Mr. Tepperberg said. The brunch bacchanalia shows no sign of running dry. The Mondrian SoHo is starting Scene Sundays this month at its Imperial No. Nine restaurant. In Las Vegas, the original Lavo started a Champagne brunch a few weeks ago. Similar affairs have bubbled up in Boston, Los Angeles and Washington. For those looking to replicate the formula, here’s a guide to some of New York’s frothiest. Day and Night Ajna Bar (25 Little West 12th Street, dayandnightnyc.com); Saturday, noon to 6 p.m. This extravagant French-themed party landed in October at Ajna Bar in the meatpacking district, after dousing the Hamptons, Art Basel in Miami and the Oak Room in the Plaza Hotel with rosé. Beneath an industrial skylight and fluttering flags from the United Kingdom, France and Israel, well-heeled patrons pumped their fists and posed for purse-lipped Facebook photos, racking up huge tabs every Saturday. “I understand there’s a lot of people out there going through hard times,” said Daniel Koch, the promoter who helped start the Day and Night parties at Merkato 55. “But what you want to do with your money is your business.” SIGNAL TO DANCE ON TABLES “If you’ve been sprayed with Champagne, make some noise!” a hype man will shout between piercing dance tracks from Robyn, Calvin Harris and Oasis. Dancers in orange bathing suits will emerge; pipes will blast jets of fog. In a dangerously drunken take on a bar mitzvah ritual, a man spooning dessert out of a giant bowl will be seated on a chair and lifted high into the air by his cronies. BRUNCH SET Club-savvy guests seem piped in from Miami, Monaco and Merrill Lynch. “I’m from the South, so drinking during the day is not new to me,” said a woman who wore a Diane Von Furstenberg dress but not the necessary wristband to enter the V.I.P. area. Outside, near a black Aston Martin coupe, a young man wearing paint on his face and sunglasses delved into socioeconomics. “We’re the 1 percent,” he said to a woman, matter of factly. THE BUFFET The Nutella-stuffed croissants ($12) cater to Europeans, while a gimmicky $2,500 ostrich egg omelet (with foie gras, lobster, truffle, caviar and a magnum of Dom Perignon) is for aspiring Marie Antoinettes. Champagne bottles start at $500; packages with several bottles of liquor and mixers for mojitos or bellinis are $1,000. The check can be sobering. “You didn’t look at the price of the Dom bottle!” a man barked into his iPhone, to a friend who apparently ditched before paying. “It’s $700!” STILL-HOT ACCESSORY Slatted “shutter shades” live on at Day and Night. DID THE D.J. PLAY “WELCOME TO ST.-TROPEZ”? Yes. Lavo Champagne Brunch Lavo (39 East 58th Street, lavony.com); Saturday, 2 to 6:30 p.m. Smog guns. Confetti cannons. Piñatas. Masked masseuses. Dancers in Daisy Duke shorts (some on stilts, obviously). Since last November, this Italian restaurant has roiled with the energy and pageantry of Mardi Gras. At the recent Halloween party, Slick Rick, an old-school rapper with an eye patch and glinting ropes of jewelry, lethargically performed several ’80s hits. Some of the younger “Black Swans” in attendance were unsure of his identity. “Is he big in London?” asked an Australian woman wearing a top hat. SIGNAL TO DANCE ON TABLES Caffeinated anthems like Pitbull’s “Hey Baby” and Roscoe Dash’s “All the Way Turnt Up” are accentuated by processions of bouncers carrying women above them in tubs, like Cleopatra on a palanquin. Polenta pancakes taking up precious square footage? Just kick them aside with your stilettos. Newsletter Sign Up Continue reading the main story Open Thread Newsletter A look from across the New York Times at the forces that shape the dress codes we share, with Vanessa Friedman as your personal shopper. You agree to receive occasional updates and special offers for The New York Times's products and services. See Sample Privacy Policy Opt out or contact us anytime BRUNCH SET Share Champagne spritzers with willowy model types and inheritors of wealth. The scrum on an October afternoon included the son of a Mongolian dignitary, six scions of Mexican plutocracy wearing novelty somberos, and at least one supermodel. “She’s everywhere,” said Mr. Tepperberg, as the nymph, whose name he couldn’t remember, disappeared into the jungle of merriment. THE BUFFET With the emphasis on tabletop dancing, Italian trattoria offerings (margherita pizzas for $21, and lemon ricotta waffles for $19) are often abandoned underfoot and sprinkled with confetti. Proving alcohol reigns supreme here, ice buckets are carefully shielded with napkins. Bottle service rules: Moët Brut is $195 and liquor starts at $295. Balthazar and Nebuchadnezzar sizes surge toward the $10,000 mark. RISKY ROSé Alcohol and high-altitude dancing can be perilous: there was a brief hullabaloo in one corner when several women took a tumble. DID THE D.J. PLAY “WELCOME TO ST.-TROPEZ”? Yes. Eat Yo Brunch Yotel (570 10th Avenue, yotel.com); Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. If spending thousands of dollars makes your stomach turn, this newish party at Yotel is more easily digested. This affably cartoonish affair, held at the space-age hotel in Hell’s Kitchen with the design aesthetics of a Pokémon, draws a gay-friendly crowd lured northward by Patrick Duffy, a promoter. “There’s a lot of pressure in night life,” Mr. Duffy said. “But I feel like Sunday is a comedown. It doesn’t have to be perfect.” SIGNAL TO DANCE ON TABLES These connoisseurs of brunch wear designer shoes too stylish for tromping atop omelets. With a D.J. spinning dance tracks from LeLe and Earth, Wind & Fire, guests sip bellinis at the bar or banter at long communal tables. The performers are looser. One afternoon, Roxy Cottontail, a pink-haired promoter, vamped around the sunken dining area with a microphone. “Don’t make kitty pounce,” she rapped, before climbing atop a table. BRUNCH SET Clusters of trim men wear leather motorcycle jackets or shroud themselves in patterned scarves. “It’s an eclectic, downtown vibe,” Ms. Cottontail said. “We have the most fabulous gays in New York City.” When a platinum-blond waiter in skintight jeans pranced in front of a wall decorated with pictures of sumo wrestlers riding Japanese carp, it seemed straight from an anime cell. THE BUFFET For an egalitarian $35, patrons receive unlimited grub — options include chilaquiles, halibut sliders and seaweed salad — and a two-hour window of boozing. “It’s not bougie,” said Mr. Duffy, who bounded across the room hugging guests and hand-delivering shots. “You could be a poor, starving artist or someone that doesn’t take a client for under $20 million.” COLOR CODE Wear purple if you hope to be camouflaged by the staff outfits, chairs and ceilings. DID THE D.J. PLAY “WELCOME TO ST.-TROPEZ”? No. Sunset Saturdays PH-D Rooftop Lounge at Dream Downtown (355 West 16th Street, dreamdowntown.com); Saturday, 5:30 to 10 p.m. Despite a happy hour time slot, this sunset party atop the Dream Downtown hotel is not for pre-gaming. After funneling in brunch crowds from elsewhere, 8 p.m. has the frenzied atmosphere and intoxication of 2 a.m. The offbeat timing may deter conventional weekend warriors. “No matter how cool the place, some people feel Friday and Saturday nights are for amateurs,” said Matt Strauss, a manager of PH-D. “We’re not for amateurs.” SIGNAL TO DANCE ON TABLES The D.J. rapid-fires through tracks from C+C Music Factory, LMFAO and Rick Ross, but booze-lubricated guests scramble on couches with little hesitation. Those grappling with bursts of existential angst after six hours of brunch can gaze pensively at the spectacular views of Midtown Manhattan. BRUNCH SET Attractive women and affluent men knot around tables; hotel guests gawk from the bar. On a recent Saturday, Mark Wahlberg danced with a few friends, and David Lee, a former New York Knick, enjoyed downtime provided by the N.B.A. lockout. “We saw an angle,” said Matt Assante, a promoter. “People spend more money than at nighttime.” THE BUFFET Brunch is thankfully over, but crispy calamari ($17) and guacamole ($12) could constitute a light dinner. A bottle of Veuve Clicquot is $475. Cîroc vodka is $450. Cocktails like the Cloud Nine (Beefeater gin, Campari, grapefruit) are $18; a Bud Light is $10. WINDING DOWN After the rigors of daylong gorging, relax with the help of an on-site masseuse. DID THE D.J. PLAY “WELCOME TO ST.-TROPEZ”? Obviously.

The 3 P.M. Brunch With the 4 A.M. Vibe By BEN DETRICK NOV. 16, 2011 Continue reading the main story Share This Page Share Tweet Pin Email More Save Photo An enthusiastic reveler parties to a performance by Roxy Cottontail, a promoter, at Eat Yo Brunch at Yotel on 10th Avenue, where the $35 brunch allows patrons to eat and drink for two hours. Credit Deidre Schoo for The New York Times BRUNCH, an occasion for flapjacks, Bloody Marys and meandering conversation, is traditionally the most sluggish of meals. But a smorgasbord of clubby New York restaurants have transformed lazy midday gatherings into orgies of overindulgence with blaring music, jiggling go-go dancers and bar tabs that mushroom into fiv

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