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CANELAHDAS

The canelé de Bordeaux is a magical bakery confection with a rich custardy interior covered by a thin caramelized shell. It´s a brilliant construction developed long ago by an anonymous cook in Bordeaux, whose recipe has been subjected to 300 years of refinements. Almost black at first sight, the first bite is bittersweet The crunchy burnt sugar shell makes an exquisite contrast to its smooth, sweet filling, fragrant with vanilla and rum.

Most recipes don't carry a story, but the canelé carries many. One of the oldest points to a convent in Bordeaux before the French Revolution. The story says the nuns made cakes called "canalize" with donated egg yolks from local wine makers. Wine makers use egg whites only to clarify their wines, and this is still true in some chateau today. Any records that might verify this were lost in the revolution, so the convent story becomes a legend. But the alternative story may be even better, it says residents of Bordeaux, who lived along the docks, took the flour that spilled around the loading areas and used it to make sweets for poor children. The small canelé molds, fluted and made of copper or brass, were nestled in embers to be baked. Whatever the actual story is - the popularity of canelés has risen and fallen many times over the years.

The basic recipe calls for a cold batter to be poured into an ice-cold fluted, tin-lined, copper mold. They are placed in a very hot oven and baked for a very long time. After baking, the canelés are tapped out onto a grill while still hot, then left to cool while their exteriors harden. They are at their most glorious one hour out of the oven, within five or six hours they begin to turn spongy.

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