Matsutake is the common name for a highly prized and sought after mycorrhizal mushroom that is grown in Asia, in China, Japan, Korea and a handful of other places around the world. It has been an important ingredient in Japanese cuisine for 1,000 years. They have a tradition there of giving mushrooms as gifts, it is considered very special. The matsutake grow under trees and are usually hidden under fallen leaves and the duff layer. The mushroom forms a symbiotic relationship with the roots of a limited number of tree species. In Japan it is most commonly associated with the Japanese Red Pine. In the Pacific Northwest it is found in coniferous forests made up of pine trees like Douglas Fir, Noble Fir, Shasta Fir, Sugar Pine, Ponderosa Pine and Lodge Pole Pine. Further south, it is also associated with hardwoods, namely the Tanoak and Madrone forests.
Matsutake are hard to harvest and therefore the price is very high. The Japanese matsutake at the beginning of the season, which is when you get the highest grade, can go up to $2000 per kilogram. In contrast, the average value for imported matsutake is about $90 per kilogram. Their magnificently spicy aroma, similar to a blend of pine and cinnamon, enhances wild mushroom dishes.
My first experience with matsutake was in Kyoto. I was in Japan during the season and didn't miss the occasion to dine in a vegetarian restaurant. It was a kaiseki style diner in a private tatami room alongside a small pound. There were first served cut into small quarters in a light broth, with wild barley and slices of sudashi lime. They were served again off of a teriyaki grill as a real delicacy. Their flavor and texture is really unique. Japanese matsutake are more flavorful than the ones we purchase from the Pacific Northwest.
At the restaurant we grill them whole, then shred them from the stem into small quarters. We season them simply with sudashi lime juice and smoked salt.
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