Homo, hetero, he who swings both ways—it's an anything goes world out there. While opening the doors to the boys club has become widely accepted among women (most recently with "lesbian chic" à la Agyness Deyn), the men's team is knocking on the door to the ladies lounge.
Although men from David Bowie to Hedi Slimane have long pushed gender boundaries, the attitude has never had such broad appeal. Rooted in an effeminate aesthetic, the new modern masculinity is hitting its mark with more than just the flamboyantly inclined.
Take, for instance, the recent boom in men's grooming. Products such as Manscara and Guyliner are popping up on the market with celebrities such as Pete Wentz wearing them, while there are reports of men's tights flying off the virtual shelves at online retailer Legwear4men. Even macho sports stars embody a new kind of fashion icon—LeBron James graced American Vogue's April cover, while David Beckham and pro hockey player/Vogue intern Sean Avery openly embrace their love of looking good.
Men are suddenly inundated with a look that is decidedly more fey than butch thanks to feminized figureheads such as Terence Koh, the skinny art star with a penchant for flamboyant clothes, and Beyoncé's gender-bender choreographer Jonte, who has an upcoming CD. Plus, high fashion is on board too. French Vogue's November cover showcased model Carolyn Murphy vamping it up alongside bearded drag queen André J, while the spring/summer '09 collections featured many effeminate looks.
At Jil Sander, Raf Simons color blocking drew attention to the waist of models and gave them womanly silhouettes. Meanwhile, Christopher Bailey at Burberry revealed a sensual softness through long, fitted knit sweaters with deeply scooped necklines—also seen on the Prada boys—giving the male chest and clavicle the same allure as cleavage. Lastly, Raf Simons paraded one of his models in a one piece, while men at Comme des Garçons wore skirts—arguably the most emblematic symbols of femininity in Western culture.
Make-up artist Edward Bess, who could be a poster child for this look, says, "menswear is leaner and more polished now than ever and lends itself to being worn in an androgynous way. The modern man can be fully groomed in a very slim fitting suit without sacrificing his masculinity."
Men are undoubtedly the next big consumer for future marketers to look out for. And while their female counterparts will be right alongside, who's to say unisex fashion won't be falling in line soon?
—Kyle Landman
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