Alice Waters and Obama’s ‘Kitchen’ Cabinet
Alice Waters (Evan Sung for The New York Times)
The first “kitchen cabinet” was President Andrew Jackson’s team of close but unofficial advisers. Now the chef Alice Waters is leading a campaign to persuade President-elect Barack Obama to create a literal kitchen cabinet.
In a letter to the president-elect, Ms. Waters — joined by Ruth Reichl, the editor of Gourmet, and the New York restaurateur Danny Meyer — urged Barack and Michelle Obama to set an example for the nation on culinary issues like the naming of a White House chef and growing organic vegetables in the White House garden.
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“A person of integrity who is devoted to the ideals of sustainability and health would send a powerful message that food choices matter,” the letter said. “Supporting seasonal, ripe delicious American food would not only nourish your family, it would support our farmers, inspire your guests, and energize the nation.”
Earlier this month Ms. Waters joined 90 prominent food and agriculture leaders to suggest candidates for secretary of agriculture.
I spoke with her today about why an Obama kitchen cabinet should focus on issues involving the kitchen.
Why is the selection of the White House chef important to you?
We hope to see that position redefined and just broaden the perspective of what could be done in that place, both for the nourishment of the family but also for the meaning and deliciousness of meals for guests. The symbolic impact is something profoundly important. Even if you don’t taste the food, if you’re hearing this idea that good food should be a right and not a privilege, then that message is getting across. We’re talking about local seasonal food supporting the people who are taking care of the land. You’re inviting the guests to dine on the very best of what America has to offer. This could inspire a rediscovery of our gastronomic heritage and biodiversity.
What qualities do you want to see in a White House chef? Should you be a candidate for the job?
It’s not a job I could do, but I could certainly help to find someone or evaluate who is there. I want them to consider somebody who thinks about food as being connected to nature, to time and place, who understands where food comes from. I’m not thinking of someone who is a celebrity chef. Sometimes the celebrity gets in the way of a focus on real food. I think it should be somebody who just really understands the philosophy.
Is it really practical to grow food on the White House lawn?
I’d love to see a garden sprout up that’s positively and beautifully connected in some way to what happens inside those kitchens. That’s not something that can happen overnight. It takes time to develop. How do you utilize a kitchen garden properly and engage with historic societies? There are so many considerations. I think we could be an invaluable resource for whoever is there, and add and help define priorities.
Why do you think this administration would be willing to consider your proposal?
I think this is an unusual president. I think it’s somebody who cares about what he eats and what his family eats, somebody who understands the issues of obesity and understands the issues of the environment. We’re trying to bring food out of that place of fueling up and into a place of nature and culture.
How do you think the culinary decisions of the White House change our views of food in this country?
Americans don’t have deep gastronomic roots. They wanted to get away from the cultures of Europe or wherever they came from. We stirred up that melting pot pretty quickly. Then fast food came in and took over. We have to bring children into a new relationship to food that connects them to culture and agriculture. I think the demonstration of that idea at the White House could be profound. I can imagine the people who work there eating there. The whole idea of making a sort of democracy within that kitchen is of great interest to me. It would be a team of people, not just a head chef handing down orders. I can’t tell you how influential it could be.
For more from Alice Waters, read this story in the San Francisco Chronicle. The Associated Press also explored possible chef candidates in “White House Chefs Look for Sensitivity, Not a Star.” And finally, read this charming Q&A from IndyStar.com to learn about Ms. Waters’ most memorable food experience, must-have foods and other interesting facts about the popular chef.
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